Our next ports of call were Varna and Nessebur in Bulgaria. We disembarked at Varna early in the morning after sailing through the night. Today Varna is a major tourist destination in the region.
A watery sunshine and a chilly breeze greeted us as we took a bus and walking tour of the sights of the city. As with so many towns around the Black Sea the history goes back to Roman times and earlier, and there are many Roman ruins around the harbour side. As with the other cities we have visited it too was an important link in the Ottoman empire, it see-sawed between control by the Bulgurs and the Turks for centuries,
We were taken to the Roman Baths where it is possible to get a picture of just what a big enterprise these were and how sophisticated Roman engineering was. We also visited a Roman market place where the mosaic floor was remarkably preserved despite a flood in recent years which had ruined some of the mosaic. On the down side it is all a bit fusty and in need of a clean, but it remains remarkable.
The Ethnographic Museum was another stop. This is in an Ottoman town house built by one of the upper classes almost entirely of wood. It houses local crafts and folk costumes and was an interesting overview of the culture of the region. Other tours we were offered today included the Balchik Botanical Gardens, Balchik being a coast town just outside Varna, and the tour included a tour of the palace built in 1936 by King Ferdinand of Romania for his English wife Queen Marie. But as we only had a half day in Varna only one tour was possible. Often we will take ourself off to explore, but when a ship only calls into a port for a half day, unlees you have made private arrangements, taking a town tour is really the only way to see a place – sometimes you will find the port is out of town and just getting into town can talk precious time. We left Varna at lunchtime and headed to Nessebar, also known as Nesebar. Sailing into the port in the late afternoon sun was magical. It is a very pretty port and you can see why it is a major resort, not just for local but also British and German tourists.
We had a night and a day in this town, so as soon as the ship had docked we set off to walk the old part of town, right beside the port. This town too is steeped in history – going back 3,000 years. One of the most important Byzantine towns on the west coast of the Black Sea in Byzantine times, it has many churches, Roman ruins and 19th century wooden houses. It is also has a vibrant tourist sector with many shops, cafes and restaurants.
The excursion we chose the next day was the Bulgarian Village. We set off in a bus which took us on a tour of the country side and gave us a quick look at the resort of Sunny which has around 500 tourist hotels and sandy beaches. The village we visited was Goritsa, a sleepy little village populated by many retirees, where we visited the tiny local Orthodox Church, located in a small house, as this was the only way these Christians could worship in the time of the Ottoman and Muslim domination. The priest and his wife spoke very good English and gave us an excellent overview of how their church operated and their lives.
There followed morning town at the home of a local family who greeted us with the traditional home-baked bread which you eat sprinkled with a mix of cinnamon and salt (delicious), home-baked sweets and cakes (a baklava of course and other sweets baked with filo, shortbreads including kourabiedes, and homemade cheese. The master of the house also made very good wine and had a distillery making rakia. They were warm and welcoming and it was a delightful interlude.
A visit to the local majoy followed and we were back at the ship by lunchtime. More time to explore in the afternoon then we sailed for Istanbul in the late afternoon