Cunard Queen Elizabeth Australian Garden Journey 2021

flowers and watering can for Australian Garden Journey by congerdesign from Pixabay

Cunard has announced their first dedicated garden voyage for Australian garden lovers. Promoted as a way for those cruising to grow their gardening knowledge (their pun, not mine) this voyage will depart from Sydney and return 7 days later after visiting Hobart and Melbourne. The voyage departs March 1, 2021.

Guest speakers in include TV’s Graham Ross, native plant guru Angus Stewart and broadcaster Indira Naidoo, whose specialty is edible gardens. There are 9 experts in all covering topics from bee-keeping to landscaping. 

If you live in Sydney cruising in and out of  your home port is a very easy way to travel. No airports to negotiate and customs is a breeze.  If you have always wanted to experience a Cunard voyage this could be the one to try. Prices start at $1,399pp for an inside cabin twin share.

This cruise will probably sell out fast – even though it is a year and half from now. If you could like to know more contact us now,

The right suitcase: carry-ons

Woman with shoulder bag wheeling carryon suitcase towards airport gates

Choosing the right suitcase becomes really important when you get it wrong!  Recently my daughter travelled for 4 nights on a domestic work trip without a good carryon suitcase. Never again was the verdict.

The right suitcase depends oin where you are going – and for how long – no one suitcase will suit (pun intended) all your trips. With any suitcase it is important to remember that the weight of the suitcase is included in your luggage allowance so while a lovely old leather suitcase may be a sturdy friend, it won’t allow you to take as much as a wheeled, shell suitcase – and it will be more difficult to hoist into the overhead lockers. 

The carry-on

The carry on suitcase is perfect for a short interstate trip. The cheaper domestic airlines have the meanest luggage allowances. Qantas and Virgin Australia are the most generous with Qantas being top – and neither will charge for small amounts of excess weight – unless you arrive at the airport with more carry-on luggage than you are allowed and you insist on taking it with you! 

The general weight allowance is 7kg (including the suitcase)  – Qantas will allow up to 14 kg in total which means you can take a garment bag as well. But let’s not be silly about this – life will be easier if you can get everything into one carry on suitcase and take a handbag or backpack.

I confess to not being the best packer (I always add something I might just need… and then something else) I have a deal to learn – even though I have been travelling for over 45 years.  I have just discovered some great youtube videos with instructive titles such as ‘How to pack over 100 items into a carry on’  and ‘Winter Packing – How to pack everything into a carry-on’ – there are heaps more. 

Tips I discovered during this research 

  • make sure you mix and match with your wardrobe – this is something I did learn many years ago.
  • Another is to use shoe bags – something I always do too.
  • Split your toiletries into smaller bags
  • Use packing bags or zip lock bags for socks, undies, and other smalls. 

Do you have another tip? 

5 important things to do before you travel

  1. Make sure your passport is up to date. That means you have at least 6 months left after your planned return to Australia.
  2. Check if you need visas or vaccinations. Visas can be tricky and depend on the passport you are travelling on as well as where you are going. Your travel agent will be on top of this – and also will know if you need vaccinations.
  3. Travel Insurance. Essential. Check the fine print. Look for what isn’t covered as much as for what is, (what if you get hit by a bicycle, break a tooth and need dental care, get sick and miss your tour??)
  4. Copy the important documents (passport, itinerary, insurance details) and leave the copies behind with a relative or friend.
  5. Have a well-packed carry-on. Be prepared – if you are travelling budget you may need a pillow, eye shade, water, snacks, something to read, a screen. Take a few essentials in case your luggage is mislaid

Istanbul for a day

We have another day in Istanbul after disembarking from the  ‘Minerva..

We disembarked early in the morning and headed for a hotel which we have booked in the Old Istanbul.  We thoroughly enjoyed our time on  board ‘Minerva’, it has something no other cruise we have done has, though we believe that Saga (which do not sail to Australia) has a similar ambience. The cabins are quite simple compared to those on other ships – even the suites which have balconies, however the public areas are like an English country house, spacious and friendly with comfy armchairs and cosy sofas. There are a number of different areas to sit including an excellent library, classified in the Dewey system (though don’t look for a catalogue). There are two bars and two restaurants – both served by the same kitchen, but one casual buffet style and the other formal. Many of the passengers are serial travellers with Swan Hellenic and were discussing past and future cruises and making plans to meet up again at the next cruise. It felt like belonging to a friendly English country club.

Topkapi Palace, Istanbul
Image of Topkapi Palace by Waldo Miguez from Pixabay

After dropping our bags we headed for Topkapi. This was an option on the excursion program yesterday but we had already booked Old Instanbul. Topkapi Palace is like a small town. The residence of the Ottoman Sultans constructed in 1478 it was lived in until 1868 it has 4 courtyards and beautiful gardens in and around the buildings. There is

a library, kitchens, and the famous harem – a town within a town. The Imperial Treasury has gifts to the sultans on display and there are audience galleries, schoolrooms and Turkish baths. While it is very splendid and well worth a visit, it is a little tedious after about an hour or two. This is because it is room after room beautifully decorated with tiles and marble. These rooms have little furniture except the occasional low ottoman sofa. It would be far more evocative if, for example,  the kitchens were set up as they are at Hampton Court Palace in England for example with models of the food and people who would have used them, actually acting out cooking and food preparation. It was a beautiful sunny day however and we enjoyed our time wandering through the gardens. After about 4 hours we set off the find the Spice Market. This was well worth a visit, though it is hugely disappointing not to be able to bring any sices home. I am even wary of bringing home Turkish delight unless it is sealed. The Spice Market or Egyptian Spice Bazaar, is in a very old part of town, under cover and seems to extend for miles. Dozens of stalls selling the same produce make it difficult to decide, but finally I settle on a few boxes of Turkish delight – after tasting it – and ask for them sealed. Our evening was planned to be in a meze house in Taksim, but after taking the tram and funicular to get to this part of town we decided it was too seedy – and that the area around the Agia Sophia and the Blue Mosque looked like they had better restaurants. Next time we need to know where to go as I am sure that Istanbul has some great innovative food. We ended up eating in a run-of-the-mill cafe… have an average meze plate and a meal cooked in a claypot known as guvec – not a meal to celebrate

Istanbul Turkey – Black Sea on Minerva

We arrived in Istanbul in the early morning with a mist on the Bosphorus, and a sunny day in store. Istanbul is a enormous city, growing from the around 1.5 million when Martin first visited in the late 1960s to around 14 million. With the two bridges connected the Asian and European sides of the town it is bustling and busy with ferries criss-crossing the Bosphorus and a very modern efficient tram system (very simple to use and well-worth using if you staying anytime and want to explore on foot).

We had a day and a night on the ship before we disembarked finally so we took advantage of the tours and started with the tour of Old Istanbul.

This began with a tour of the Blue Mosque, with its intricate blue tiles covering every conceivable wall and roof space, 6 minarets and stained glass windows pointing to the huge dome. It was crowded even early in the day and as it is a functioning mosque it was necessary to take off one’s shoes and for the women to cover their heads with a scarf not a hat!).

Then the highlight- the Underground Cistern which dates back to the 6th century and was built by the Emperor Justinian in 532 to enrues that the town had it’s own water supply that could not be ransacked by invaders.It is in amazing condition as it was ignored by the Ottoman empire who want use water uneless it is flowing and is now a mecca for tourists. If you do little else in Istanbul, visit the Cistern… it is wworth going down all the steps, queueing and standing under dripping water.

Finally we visited the Hagia Sophia, originally built as a Christian church under Constantine the Great, and rebuilt by Emperor Justinian. Justinian certainly left his mark on Istanbul, he was determined that this building would suprass all others in splendor and it is certainly awesome. Taken over by the Turks and turned into a mosque as it remained, being rebuilt and renovated until 1935 when Mustafa Ataturk had the foresight to turn it into a museum. It too is certainly worth a visit and will impress with its grandeur and incredible feats of civil engineering.

Our afternoon excursion was a more leisurely cruise on the Bosphorous. This took us up the European side of the straits and down the Asian side. With a stop at a waterside cafe for some local yoghurt (very good) and a Turkish coffee.
A beautiful sunny day made it all the more impressive.

Bulgaria: Varna and Nessebur (Nesbar) on Black Sea

Our next ports of call were Varna and Nessebur in Bulgaria. We disembarked at Varna early in the morning after sailing through the night. Today Varna is a major tourist destination in the region.

A watery sunshine and a chilly breeze greeted us as we took a bus and walking tour of the sights of the city. As with so many towns around the Black Sea the history goes back to Roman times and earlier, and there are many Roman ruins around the harbour side. As with the other cities we have visited it too was an important link in the Ottoman empire, it see-sawed between control by the Bulgurs and the Turks for centuries,

We were taken to the Roman Baths where it is possible to get a picture of just what a big enterprise these were and how sophisticated Roman engineering was. We also visited a Roman market place where the mosaic floor was remarkably preserved despite a flood in recent years which had ruined some of the mosaic. On the down side it is all a bit fusty and in need of a clean, but it remains remarkable.

The Ethnographic Museum was another stop. This is in an Ottoman town house built by one of the upper classes almost entirely of wood. It houses local crafts and folk costumes and was an interesting overview of the culture of the region. Ethnographic Museum, Varna, Bulgaria Other tours we were offered today included the Balchik Botanical Gardens, Balchik being a coast town just outside Varna, and the tour included a tour of the palace built in 1936 by King Ferdinand of Romania for his English wife Queen Marie. But as we only had a half day in Varna only one tour was possible. Often we will take ourself off to explore, but when a ship only calls into a port for a half day, unlees you have made private arrangements, taking a town tour is really the only way to see a place – sometimes you will find the port is out of town and just getting into town can talk precious time. We left Varna at lunchtime and headed to Nessebar, also known as Nesebar. Sailing into the port in the late afternoon sun was magical. It is a very pretty port and you can see why it is a major resort, not just for local but also British and German tourists.

We had a night and a day in this town, so as soon as the ship had docked we set off to walk the old part of town, right beside the port. This town too is steeped in history – going back 3,000 years. One of the most important Byzantine towns on the west coast of the Black Sea in Byzantine times, it has many churches, Roman ruins and 19th century wooden houses. It is also has a vibrant tourist sector with many shops, cafes and restaurants.

The excursion we chose the next day was the Bulgarian Village. We set off in a bus which took us on a tour of the country side and gave us a quick look at the resort of Sunny which has around 500 tourist hotels and sandy beaches. The village we visited was Goritsa, a sleepy little village populated by many retirees, where we visited the tiny local Orthodox Church, located in a small house, as this was the only way these Christians could worship in the time of the Ottoman and Muslim domination. The priest and his wife spoke very good English and gave us an excellent overview of how their church operated and their lives.

There followed morning town at the home of a local family who greeted us with the traditional home-baked bread which you eat sprinkled with a mix of cinnamon and salt (delicious), home-baked sweets and cakes (a baklava of course and other sweets baked with filo, shortbreads including kourabiedes, and  homemade cheese. The master of the house also made very good wine and had a distillery making rakia. They were warm and welcoming and it was a delightful interlude.

A visit to the local majoy followed and we were back at the ship by lunchtime. More time to explore in the afternoon then we sailed for Istanbul in the late afternoon

Bulgarian Cakes and pastries with homemade wine
Bulgarian cakes and pastries and homemade wine

Sochi, Russia then to Constanta, Romania on Minerva

Just back from an excursion into Constanta, Romania.  We did not particularly warm to it. It is a town that has seen better days, many of the beautiful ornate mansions were requisitioned by the Communists and are now crumbling, because their owners, having got them back can’t afford to restore them. The picture is of an ornate and potentially captivating building by the waterfront, that has been everything from a home to a wedding reception house to a casino, but now in disrepair. 
We did a walking tour this morning and were shown the old Roman ruins, of which there are many, including an amazingly huge mosaic floor of a former market that has been unearthed by archaeologists. Unfortunately they don’t seem to have the money to keep this in good condition either, so it’s future is probably threatened.
 It was freezing… we thought it would be warm and sunny, as the last 2 days at sea were idyllic as far as sunshine goes… so it was good to get back to the ship and a bowl of soup. 
Before our 2 days at sea, we ventured onto Russian soil at Sochi, the place of the Winter Olympics in 2014. Sochi has been described as spectacular and the mountain peaks that form the background were the site of the Olympics. It was a freezing, wet day and we opted for the excursion to see the sights and visit Stalin’s Dacha. A visa is essential for Australians entering Russia and they are very expensive and not worth if for a half day’s stopover, so there was no chance to do an independent walk around the city. Our first stop was the Matseta springs, a sulfur spring spa popular with many Russians and the reason why Stalin built one of his many dachas there.
When we arrived at Stalin’s ‘holiday house’, we found a grim dark green building, which was mostly closed to the public, even his swimming pool which was on the itinerary was closed for renovation. Kept nearly as it was in Stalin’s time, with a life-size wax figure of Stalin sitting at his desk in his office, it was quite unnerving. 

We have been listening to lectures on board by experts in diplomacy and Byzantine and military history and this has added to the tours and made the excursions much more interesting … one reason we chose this trip.
So now we have 3 more ports of call, the final one being Istanbul. Next it’s Varna, then Nessebur, then Istanbul. 

Batumi, Georgia in the sun

Batumi, Georgia is our port of call on the following day. The sun shines and the air is chilly in the early morning as our guide leads on a walking tour of the city. As with all guides, Salome is very proud of her city and it is certainly putting on its Sunday best on this day. The building sparkle in the early morning sun, especially the odd folly that may become a hotel with a ferris wheel attached to the side high off the ground and a shiny spear pointing to the heavens. 

We walk throught cobbled streets with well-kept houses and reach Neptun Square, a modern central square opposite the mosque. Service is beginning but we creep into the back of the church and watch the ceremony briefly, taking in the incense fumes and the devout crowd. 
Then it’s a bus trip to the Botanical Gardens. These are 20 minutes drive outside the city and high in the mountains. We are lucky that our guide knows her plants and she takes us through the sections of the gardens divided into various geographical regions, including, surprisingly, Australia. The view down to Batumi city is spectacular.

Lunchtime has us back on board, then a walk through another part of the city, less salubrious, and a place of gambling houses, pawn houses and money exchanges. Batumi is apparently a paradise for Turks who cross the border to gamble and enjoy an alcoholic drink! Apart from tourism the city’s economy is based on oil refining and tea as the climate is ideal for tea plantations.

The afternoon offers a special performance of the Adjara Company of Song and Dance at the State Musical Centre. This has been organised for the ship’s passengers and proves to be a captivating performance. The Musical Centre is modern with good acoustics and the performance is a precise and coalourful display of Georgian dance and music. We are treated to musicians and singers as well as dance performances and come away with a lasting memory of this part of Georgian culture.

Trabzon, northern Turkey

Trabzon, further along the Turkish coast, is our next port of call. Established round the 7th century with expectations that it would be part of the great caravan route to Persia, it is a port that you are unlikely to visit unless you travel by ship. Steeped in history of course, the port does little to give this away, it is industrial looking and in the seedy part of town. We have not chosen to do a tour of the city and visit the Agia Sophia founded in the mid 13th century, but to take the bus trip to the Sumela monastery. 

Sadly it is raining. But that doesn’t stop the modern coaches which barely straddle the mountain road heading out of town and up into them misty mountains. These are the Pontic Alps, the snow is melting on the mountain tops and there are furious waterfalls crashing into the gullies crossed by the road. 
The Sumela Monastery, on Mela Mountain, was founded in the 4th century when an icon of the Virgin Mary formed the nucleus for a religious order and wasn’t abandoned until 1923. 

It has been rescued and is currently being restored. Attached to a sheer rock cliff, like a wasp’s nest, the monastery is an amazing feat of engineering by the monks and their workers. Self-sufficient with a bakery, a kitchen, water supplied by an aqueduct, a library and student’s rooms it is entered via the guard room after climbing steep stairs through the forest.

It is now a major tourist attraction and we were one of many parties making the trek up the mountain from the carpark. 

There is much work still to be done on the monastery which has been seriously defaced by graffitti over the frescoes, but you can’t destroy the location and sheer magnitude of the construction which covers the side of the mountain and, we were told is also accessible by tunnel and from below – but that is closed to the public. When there has been more restoration work done, it will be an even more awesome piece of history.

We also have the afternoon in Trabzon – so we set off into the town. Firstly taking the wrong turn into a seedy local market, then re-tracing our steps to the central square and the hub of the town’s social life on a Saturday afternoon. We enjoy a fresh bream, split in half and grilled to perfection, accompanied by salad and tomato/chilli paste and a complimentary baclava with tea. Just next door an excellent sweet shop beckons and we buy plump dried apricots and figs, Turkish pastries and pistachio sweets to take back to the ship.

Minerva reaches the Black Sea

We set sail from Cannakale in the late afternoon and headed down straits towards the Bosphorous and Istanbul. By 6.00 a.m. we had reached the outskirts of the city that was once called Constantinople and by the time we were up we were passing under the first of the great bridges. The morning was misty, the sun was watering trying with an orange glow to be seen through the thick grey clouds, but without success.

Once we had passed the new (third) bridge being built to cross the Bosphorus we were into the Black Sea and on our way to Sinop. Before we decided to take this cruise I knew very little about the Black Sea, except that Sebastopol and the Crimea were somewhere on its seabord so Sinop was not a place I ever expected to visit. It took 2 nights to reach this town in Turkey on the southern seabord of the Black Sea. Legend has it that Sinop was founded by the Amazons, history has it that  whoever it was the first habitation was around 700 B.C. It was a focus for the trade route for thousands or years, and many of the great civilizations fought over its possession. The city walls that still stand in many places, are over 2000 years old ahd have been built upon many times over the years. We took a walk with a guide to the mosque and the folk museum, then set off on our own. We found a delightful coffee shop/music coffee bar tucked into a courtyard. Here a young man, whose English was very good, served us an excellent Turkish coffee and treated us to an impromptu performance on his instrument, a bit like a mandolin, but made from a butternut pumpkin shell. 

A bakery tempted us inside and we bought freshly baked turkish bread and a couple of pastries before heading back to the ship for lunch. Minerva set sail early afternoon for the next port of Trabzon.